There are several factors involved. First however, is that if you expect to wear the watch, You should choose something that is eye catching and appealing to you personally. Don't worry about what your friends think. Make sure that the watch will fit in with your lifestyle. Perhaps even a vintage watch that will distinguish you from the rest of the crowd.

Choose a dealer who is experienced and one who has been in the trade for several years and will answer all of your questions. Get a recommendation if possible.

Check if the watch is gold, stainless or gold filled. If the watch case is gold then check for gold mark. It can be simply marked as 14K or 18K , 375, 585, 750 or in the form of a Hallmark if from Europe.

What is the condition of the case and band? Do not worry overly about the band since most purchasers will change to their own specifications in any case. However, if the band is a metal bracelet, then find out if it was original to the watch.

Don't buy watches at online auctions as most watches are sold "as is".

Is the watch signed by the maker? It could be signed on dial, crown, case back or movement or on any or all of these places.

What is condition of the dial? Is it spotted or speckled? If purchasing from a web site dealer, most large photos will show imperfections clearly. Has it been redialled? If it has been redialled - was it done so by a qualified dial artist? Generally, dealers will indicate if original dial.

What is condition of movement? Is it clean? Is there any rust? Is watch running well? Has it been recently serviced.? Will dealer have it serviced for an additional fee?

All of the above items should be covered in the description by the dealer selling the watch. Find a dealer who displays the symbol and is a member of the NAWCC National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors, Inc.

Ashton-Blakey Vintage Watches began as a private collection that grew from a love of collectible vintage watches and pocket watches for over 30 years and now has a web site for more than 12 years featuring watches from makers such as Rolex, Tudor, Breitling, Omega, IWC, Elgin, Heuer, Illinois, Bulova, Longines, Girard-Perregaux, Ball, Mido, Waltham, Tiffany Tissot, Doxa, Zenith, military and more.

If you are buying for investment as a collector then different criteria will apply.